Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh.

Souqs

Just as the Djemaa el-Fna is famous for its energy and life, the souqs of the Marrakesh medina are some of the best in Morocco, producing a wide variety of high-quality crafts, as well as a fair amount of rubbish.

The streets here are just as labyrinthine as in Fès and every bit as busy. On the other hand, the shops selling arts and crafts come to an abrupt end at the Ali ben Youssef Mosque, making the hard-sell part of the medina comparatively compact. Head north or east and you find yourself in more peace- ful territory.

As in Fès, it is probably a sensible policy to engage a guide for your first excursion into the medina’s souqs and monuments. This is not to say that you really need one. However tortuous the lanes become, the first rule of navigation applies – if you keep